Why The 36mm Explorer 124270 is the Quintessential Rolex

“The Platonic Ideal of a Watch” - Gary Shteyngart

I believe the Rolex Explorer is, and has been since its conception, the quintessential Rolex model. A simple, clear uncomplicated time-only watch - no GMT hand, no chronograph module, no elapsed dive-time bezel, no helium escape valve, no calendar function - just three hands from the centre of the dial showing you the time and nothing but the time. But unlike the Oyster Perpetual, which has all these same features (or lack thereof), the Explorer has the functional no-nonsense tool watch aesthetic, with the black dial, more legible ‘mercedes’ hands and flat, sterile bezel, unlike the rounded or fluted bezels found on the Oyster Perpetual, Date-Just or Day-Date.

And by being the quintessential Rolex, the Explorer is therefore the quintessential high-end Swiss watch. The Explorer is to Rolex what the 911 is to Porsche - there are others to choose from, but Explorer is the one. And like how the platonic ideal of a sports car is the 911, the platonic ideal of a watch is the Explorer. So said author and watch collector Gary Shteyngart in his Talking Watches episode with HODINKEE about his mid-century ‘exclamation dial’ Explorer 1016.

The claim that the Explorer is Rolex’s 911 is definitely contentious, I know, the elephant in the room being the Submariner, a watch who’s silhouette is synonymous with the brand. Perhaps this idea was seeded in the James Bond movies when Sean Connery donned a ‘Big-Crown’ Submariner. However Ian Fleming himself wore an Explorer reference 1016, and refers to Bond’s watch as simply “his Rolex”. I imagine Fleming was not only referring to an Explorer, not a Submariner, but also mentions only the brand name rather than the model to highlight the Explorer’s quintessence.

I would also argue that the Submariner is so necessarily tied to a specific use case (scuba diving), that it cannot have the same level of platonic idealism as the Explorer. And although the Explorer was apparently designed for mountaineering, the design lends itself far better to everyday wear than the Sub. It’s size (which is almost always 36mm, but we can get into the nitty gritty later) sits somewhere between dress watch and sport watch, meaning you can wear it in the thick of hardcore adventure just as fittingly as you can to an important board meeting (what’s more Rolex-luxury-lifestyle-branding than that?).

Contextual History and Collectors’ Guide

To really appreciate the 124270 in the metal, we should first put the watch in the context of the Explorer’s branch of the Rolex family tree…

Rolex Canada Oyster Explorers: The earliest Rolex with ‘Explorer’ written on the dial is an Oyster reference 3136 from 1936; almost 2 decades before the first summit of Mount Everest which is said to be the defining moment in the history for the model. The Oyster Explorer and the Date-Just-like Explorer-Date were apparently produced by Rolex’s Canadian arm, a subsidiary brand before the creation of Tudor who had freedom over what they printed on the dials.

Sir Edmund Hilary’s Oyster Perpetual: The Rolex Explorer still didn’t exist as it’s own reference in the Rolex catalog when Sir Edmund Hilary and Tenzing Norgay were recorded summiting Mount Everest for the first time on the 29th of May 1953. The story goes that Rolex developed a one-off white dial Oyster Perpetual with freeze-resistant lubricant to accompany the pair to the summit. Here is a good opportunity to quickly stress that a hardwearing and accurate watch was absolutely essential for such an expedition to succeed (and still is today, albeit not a mechanical one). Hilary, however, apparently didn’t wear the watch during the summit, opting to instead use a Smiths De Luxe made in Cheltenham, England. But he still either brought to Rolex as a backup or was worn by his Sherpa, Norgay, while summiting (this is known since a debrief exists from 1953 where Hilary venerates the capability of the Rolex). Rolex then made time-only models with ‘Explorer’ printed on the dial after the expedition. If you’re interested in seeing Hilary’s watches, his Smiths De Luxe is on display in the Science Museum in London and his Rolex is on display in the Beyer Clock and Watch museum in Zurich.

Early References 6150, 6350 and 6610: The earliest Rolex printed “Explorer” on the dial of a black dial time-only watch with quarter arabic numerals at 3, 6 and 9 with ‘Mercedes’ hands is the reference 6150 (1953), which reads “EXPLORER” in the 6 o’clock position. The 6150 also had dial variants without the Explorer name within the same reference. The first dedicated Explorer reference is 6350 (1953-1955), which had “Explorer” printed at 12 o’clock and came in many variants, including the ultra rare ‘waffle’/‘honeycomb’ dials. Then came 6610, who’s earliest dials have a depth rating printed in red below “Explorer”, and is a reference which can be found with a very rare white ‘albino’ dial variation.

The 1016: In 1960, Rolex introduce the most famous of the Explorer references, and one which has the longest production run of any single reference number spanning almost three decades - the 1016 (1960-1989). The earliest 1016s have guilt dials - this is the variant which Ian Fleming owned and wore. Then came the ‘exclamation point’ dial variation (1962-1963) which had a dot of lume under the 6 to signify the use of less radioactive luminous paint - this is the variation owned by Gary Shteyngart mentioned earlier. Other versions of the explanation point feature an underline below “superlative chronometer officially certified” which are very rare. The next few years until 1966, the 1016 feature dial variations which differ in the neatness of the print of the text, the glossiness of the dial and UV light-related patina on the dials which are referred to as ‘tropical’.

The Controversial Space-Dweller: Between 1963 and 1968, some very rare versions of the 1016 read ‘Space-Dweller’ instead of ‘Explorer’. These watches were apparently Japanese market only and were to commemorate the arrival of American astronauts, however this is just speculation. Sotheby’s auctioned off three Space-Dweller dials in 2008 which were fitted to watches with correct serial numbers later. One of these retrofit Space-Dwellers belonged to Scott Heileson of Watchistry, who’s watch was used in HODINKEE’s Reference Points video. HODINKEE founder Ben Clymer also happens to own a Space Dweller 1016 as part of his personal collection.

Matte 1016s: In 1966, Rolex transitioned to a matte dial in order to place the Explorer in the same product lineup as the other tool watch references, such as the GMT Master reference 1675 and the Submariner 5513. The earliest matte dial 1016s have a shorter coronet logo with spread-out points which resemble an amphibious foot - affectionately named ‘frogs foot’ dials by collectors. These were phased out by the end of that decade into the 70s and 80s when retailers like Tiffany and Cartier would put their name on the dials, which are exceptionally rare.

Neo-Vintage 14270 & 114270: In 1989, Rolex overhauled the Explorer model with the reference 14270 (1989-2001), replacing the plexiglass with sapphire crystal and the dial layout featuring applied indices and numerals in white gold (so as not to tarnish) on a glossy dial. The earliest versions of the 14270 are the exceedingly rare ‘blackout’ version, featuring black paint in the 3,6 and 9 rather than white paint. During the turn of the millennia, Rolex made the end links of the bracelet solid and updated the movement to create the reference 114270 (2001-2010).

39mm 214270: In 2010, Rolex made the controversial move to increase the size of the watch from 36mm to 39mm (reference 214270; 2010-2021). Increasing the size is something they also did to a number of their other models including the Daytona, GMT and Submariner during this time. They also made the dial of the watch matte again with the 214270, which I believe was an attempt to place the Explorer back into the tool-watch category. The ‘Explorer’ text on the dial was moved to the 6 o’clock position, like the original 6150. In 2016 they corrected the proportions of the handset and added the blue-glowing chromalite lume to the 3,6 and 9 markers (the first time the numerals had been lumed since the 1016) - a watch known commonly as the Mark 2. The CEO of the world-famous cycling apparel brand Rapha - Simon Mottram - wears an Explorer 214270 Mk.2 on an aftermarket rubber strap while cycling.

Today’s 124270, 124273 & 224270: From 2021 until now, the Explorer reference is back to 36mm in size - reference 124270. This is the watch we will be looking at today. Rolex also currently make the 36mm in two-tone steel and gold, introduced in 2021 (ref.124273) and a 40mm steel version introduced in 2023 (ref.224270).

++ Although this section is quite in-depth, it is not a complete rundown of the history of the Explorer - I refer readers to the HODINKEE Reference Points video and article with vintage expert Eric Wind as a great place to start ++

Reference 124270 Hand’s On Review

Rolex’s Reaffirmation

To most eyes, the latest 36mm Explorer will look identical to Explorers from the 90s and early 2000s; namely the 14270 and 114270. Even I admit not knowing right away whether the watch I’m looking at on Instagram is a 14270, 114270, 124270 or even the 40mm 224270. The point is, the Explorer hasn’t really changed at all since its facelift in the early 90s.

But with that being said, there are some differences between the nineties and naughties Explorers and the current 36mm Explorer. The unique look of the most current watch is manifest most obviously in the combination of a shorter relative lug-to-lug width and the larger lume-filled numerals; the earlier Explorers had a slightly wider bracelet and smaller 3,6 and 9. Another less obvious difference is the Rolex coronet between the words “swiss” and “made” below 6 o’clock. The modern 36mm Explorer is also slightly thicker than older counterparts, but unnoticeably so.

The differences between the newest models and the 39mm 214270 which came directly before are more obvious. First, the 39mm 214270 is obviously bigger than the 36mm. Beyond this, however, looking at the proportions side-by-side, the 39mm version had a 20mm lug width which looked small for the watch, a small crown relative to the case size and a noticeable amount of blank space on the dial which gave it a broader look. The current 36mm version eliminates these perceptions by making the watch smaller altogether, while the newest 40mm version corrects these proportional oddities by increasing the lug width, increasing the size of the crown and size of the numerals and hands. This is why its hard to tell the difference between the newest 36mm and 40mm Explorers in photos since they are proportionally very similar. The 214270 also had a matte dial, while the 124270 and 224270 now have glossier dials.   

124270 On The Wrist

Taking a closer look at the 36mm 124270, it disappears on the wrist in a way that an everyday watch should, just like the 90s and 2000s versions did, and how the classic 1016 wore before that. This watch is therefore a more obvious continuation of watches like the 1016 which have become legendary among vintage watch enthusiasts. The smaller size almost reignites a vintage charm in the watch which the 39mm and 40mm version do not have.

Although the watch does have presence on the wrist, which I think comes from the case thickness and the ratio between the head of the watch at 36mm to the 19mm end-link width. It makes the watch itself pop off the wrist way more, similar to the 39mm versions rather than the 36mm references from the 90s and 00s, who had 20mm lugs (yes, 1mm does make all the difference).

There’s a case to be made for Rolex to make their tool watches in titanium rather than stainless steel for the lightweight wearability of titanium in an everyday sports/tool watch. This is what sister brand Tudor has been doing with their Pelagos range in an effort to give larger watches everyday wearability. However, now that the Explorer is back to 36mm, the watch is small enough to wear brilliantly as an everyday watch in Rolex’s proprietary 904L stainless steel - the classic sports watch metal of the last hundred years.

I do somewhat lament the move from a 20mm lug width to now 19mm since finding NATO and leather strap options are now way harder. There is also a groove cut into the middle of the case between the lugs which the end links of the new bracelet couple into, assumably to keep it straight. This groove, however, is visible and unsightly when pairing the watch with a strap. Then again, I can’t imagine anyone will really want to take this watch off its bracelet anyway since its such an integral part of the watch’s aesthetic and the quality is exceptionally good.

While we’re on the bracelet, the clasp is clearly solid and reliable, but does lack any micro-adjust feature beyond a simple ‘easy-link’ 5mm extension, which some have said is too big a jump. I personally find the ‘easy link’ suits my wrist perfectly when I’m hot and my wrist expands, though of course Rolex could have added something like the glidelock system from the Submariner or one of the clever adjustment options from Tudor. Personally I think a simple easy link is congruent with the simplicity of the rest of the watch, but others may disagree.

The updated 3230 movement now has a chronergy escapement rather than a standard lever escapement seen in previous movements used for the Explorer. The chronergy escapement achieves an increase in the watch’s power reserve from 48 hours to 72 hours by essentially decreasing the mass of the parts involved in the escapement. The pallet fork is smaller, with lighter jewels and the escape wheel is skeletonised. Less mass in the parts means they require less energy from the mainspring to move and that energy is therefore saved, which translates to a longer power reserve. In terms of the practicality and user experience of the watch, you can now put your watch down on Friday evening and pick it up again on Monday and it’ll still be running. It also means there’s slightly less friction in the movement which, in theory, means the lubricants won’t dry out as quickly, resulting in longer service intervals (although the watch still has a 10-year recommended service interval like its predecessor).

So the Rolex Explorer 124270 is not just a return to form. It’s a quiet reaffirmation of what watch enthusiasts love about Rolex. It doesn’t demand attention, but rather earns admiration through restraint, balance, and literally decades of incremental refinement. Today, many watches are over-designed and under-thought, with the idea being to make a statement; the 124270 proves that simplicity can be the most powerful statement of all.

My final thoughts, it wears like a watch should - not like a gadget, not like a statement piece, but like a companion. For those who understand the enduring appeal of a time-only tool watch done right, the Explorer remains unmatched. It doesn’t try to be everything more, and in doing so it continues to succeeds absolutely.

Where Next?

Rolex seems to have hit the nail on the head with their latest Explorer range, and I think it’s probably going to be a mainstay in the brand’s catalog for a good number of years in the same way the 1016 was.

But something we didn’t mention much in this hands-on is the current two-tone reference 124273 which is the first time Rolex has used gold for the case and bracelet of the Explorer (they have previously used gold hands in some vintage examples pre-1966, and pre-1016 references can be found with gold cases but share their reference number with Oyster Perpetuals, so far as I know). This has led to some predictions that Rolex might make the Explorer in full yellow gold, like they have done with the Sea-Dweller. The idea of a full yellow gold Explorer has been mentioned by Stephen Pulvirent, co-author of The Watch, Thoroughly Revised, and even by the staff at my local Authorised Dealer.

Or perhaps they’ll go the other way and make the Explorer in titanium. This would please the watch enthusiast market, which is perhaps why they decreased the size back to 36m in the first place. It also makes sense when considering the how titanium is the new stainless steel when it comes to tool watches, and I think Rolex have constantly tried to place the Explorer in the tool watch category; not just through advertisement, but by using a matte dial for post-1966 1016s and with the 214270 in 2010. Perhaps there could exist a fully yellow gold Explorer with a gloss dial alongside a titanium version with a matte dial; similar to the Yacht-Master lineup. Who knows?

Or Rolex could reignite the feel of the ‘albino’ 6610s and 1016s by making a white dial 124270. This would be similar to Tudor releasing the Black Bay GMT with an ‘albino’ dial a few years ago. I don’t think this will happen, however, because Rolex almost never do heritage models. The closest they have come is the Paul Newman-like dial featured on the limited edition Le Mans Daytona reference 126529LN, but they aren’t producing many of those at all.

And with that being said, a more likely development for the Explorer is a subtle movement update in the next decade or so which would include the use of their Dynapulse escapement used in the new Land-Dweller this year. Boring prediction yes, but I think this is in-line with Rolex’s tradition of only changing the Explorer very incrementally over many many years.