Hands-On: The Hamilton Khaki Field is Built-To-Last

Hamilton’s Khaki Field Mechanical is one of those simple watches which offers so much bang-for-buck. It’s a true continuation of a military-spec icon bringing unfailing usability in the field while also being versatile enough to be a one-watch collection by itself… all for well under £500.

MilSpec

Hamilton, the namesake of the Scotsman who founded Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, originally made its name as a manufacturer of precision pocket watches. The brand’s timepieces were so renowned for their dependability and accuracy that they were used during the expansion of the North American railways in the early 20th century, and Hamilton thus became ‘the watch of railroad accuracy’. 

But it was the breakout of the Great War where Hamilton first began producing wristwatches. The brand’s reputation for ‘railroad’ reliability was preserved in the creation of their first men’s wristwatch in 1917. Aimed at young draftsman, the 983 was a small (o-size), time-only wristwatch available in either a round or tonneau silver case on a khaki strap. The strap of the watch cemented its nickname - the ‘Khaki’ - which Hamilton themselves officially adopted in the 1980s. The movement for the military timepiece used the hand-wound Swiss movements from Hamilton’s ladies wristlets, and the movements of the earliest versions of the 983 even have ‘Lady Hamilton’ engraved on the barrel bridge. Despite this, Hamilton masculinised the wristwatch in the context of war, as a trench soldier could now glance the time while digging, navigating or using a weapon simultaneously (rather than having to distractedly search into a pocket). 

Source: hodinkee

During the Second World War, Hamilton shifted its production solely to the purpose of military timekeepers - wristwatches for Army and Air-force, and marine chronometers for the Navy. it was a post-Second World War military specification for a field watch (MIL-W-46374) which gave way to the Khaki Field as we know it today. These were all 33mm stainless steel watches featuring, depending on the year of production and the watch’s intended use, fixed springbars or drilled lug-holes, an ETA 2750, 2801, or 2804, and an acrylic, and then later, sapphire crystal.

Minor variation in the vintage Khaki Fields are numerous. Some were made for the US Army and US Air-force, others were made for commonwealth armies and navigators. Then, some time in the 1980s, civilian versions became available, often double-signed by retailers such as Abercrombie & Fitch, L L Bean, and the rarer co-sign, Brookstone. 

Today’s Khaki Field Mechanical is a modern 38mm, rather than the older 33mm. It still features a base ETA movement, which Hamilton are calling the H50. It is an ETA 2801-2, the mainspring being modified by Hamilton to achieve an 80hr power reserve, rather than the previous 48hrs, at a lower beat rate of 21,600. Although not COSC certified, we can testify that it safely sits at around ±3 seconds per day. The watch still comes stock with the characteristic khaki NATO strap, now with brown leather trim and keepers. The modern Khaki Field is therefore less ‘vintage-inspired’ than the faux patina may have you believe. 

In The Field

On the wrist, and while out hiking in the Sussex countryside, it’s easy to see how the Khaki Field’s military pedigree helps it perform as a true field watch. The matte black dial on crispy white hands and numerals is ultra legible at a glance, while the frosted case minimises blinding reflections. The only gripe might be a lack of anti-reflective coating on the crystal, although then again, coatings can discolor or scratch over time anyway.  

It’s the perfect mid-size at 38mm. The lugs are long with plenty of gap between the watch and the springbar, allowing enough room to accommodate the multiple layers of a NATO strap. So although the watch can rock regular two-piece strap options and is available on a stock bracelet, it’s a great platform to experiment with all different kinds of NATO strap. We tried both a grey tubular nylon strap from CWC (which is the UK’s military issued NATO) and a black seatbelt nylon strap from Crown & Buckle (seen in the cover photo). 

Tacticool

There’s something reassuring about mechanical dependability. Perhaps it’s why most of us get excited about mechanical watches in the first place; as well as classic cars or vintage cameras, a trusty fishing rod or a sturdy knife. These things just do what you need them to do - no more, no less - and can perform no matter what you put them through. The Khaki Field is just the same. All it’s doing is telling you the time, sure, but there are few contexts where you’d have to take the Khaki Field off your wrist. As well as the affordable price, that’s what I love about a watch like this.

The appeal of unfailing equipment in a luxury context is growing. It is seen in the growing popularity of minimal utilitarian fashion - Filson heritage clothing, Redwing boots or the reissue of the Leica M6 mechanical film camera are all instances of the reinvigoration of simply well-made and dare I say romantic tools. This is where the Khaki Field fits today. Much like the new M6, it’s both a callback and a continuation of a trusted classic. And like a pair of Redwing boots or a Filson bag, it has a timeless look which goes with anything - a casual hoodie, the tacticool aesthetic, streetwear or even dressed up a little, you name it. This is all because its simplistic form-follows-function design is timeless and built to last.